I run the blade at an angle along the crack to help even out the surface, remove as much as possible to reduce the amount of sanding to be done when the filler is dry. Once the gap is filled, the area covered, and before the filler dries out, use a wide metal blade to remove the excess filler and clean up the area I like to use a 6″ jointing knife, This one from Marshalltown is very good and will last you a long time if looked after. If you work the filler along the crack it will have a tendency to pull out of the gap making a mess and the job will take much longer. Using a flexible filing knife or plastic edge, often an old credit card works well, apply some ‘deep gap filler’ to the crack, and always work across the gap so as to work the filler into the area. Using the knife make sure to trim the foam back around 10mm below the final surface, this allows a good thickness of filler to be applied, making the surface area strong once dried.įor cracks that are not overly deep less than 1/2″ or 15mm or not very wide, you can skip this step and move on to applying the filler belowīefore applying the filling compound, it’s a good idea to wet the area down with water using a damp sponge or spray, making the area damp will help prevent the dry plaster around the crack from sucking away the moisture in the filler too quickly, which can lead to the filler shrinking and not bonding to the surrounding are full. For really deep cracks which go right back to the brick behind the plaster or are more than 1″ or 25 mm deep, use some expanding builders foam to take up the majority of the space, this allows some movement, and fills the gap meaning you need less filler and will help prevent the cracks from reappearing.Ĭut away any excess foam from the prepared crack using a sharp knife, you should wear cut-resistant gloves to help prevent any accidents.
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